Saturday 29 December 2012

Net yarn gain and why I'm not designing at the moment.

This has been a very busy year for me, in terms of the day job, which hasn't left much time for writing, knitting, weaving, crochet, piano playing, drumming and (not like I care) housework.

And so, with another year drawing to a close, I've only used a paltry 6,764 metres. As I was at the knit and stitch show in Harrogate last month, I think we can safely say that this year has been a net gain on the yarn front (my cupboards provide the necessary proof!).

It has also meant that I haven't been putting forward any design or submission ideas to magazines. I do have a design in Fashion Crochet (a book! An actual book!), I have been asked to do the odd thing or two and I'm still designing, but predominantly for myself.

And, in the laws of unintended consequences, this has had far more positives than I anticipated.

1) I can use the lovely yarn that I have. It's great doing commissions, as you get to play with yarn that you wouldn't otherwise buy, but while you're doing that your own stash sits there feeling lonesome. Not this year - some serious Noro has been used, as well as a selection of yarns that the long suffering one brought back from the States two years ago. That has felt very worthwhile.

2) I don't have to write everything down! Obviously, I have to make sure that sleeves match (if I want them to) etc, but I don't have to make a note of exactly how many rows I used in the neckband, as nobody's trying to replicate it.

3) No scaling of patterns. When I design, I try to make as large a size range as possible, which to me is often the hardest part of the pattern. Scaling it up and down so that it looks okay and fits properly on everything from a size 30" to a size 54" can be very difficult, particularly if there's a complex stitch involved. When it's just for me, it's just one size and if it wouldn't work for anything else, that's no biggie.

Don't get me wrong, I would like to submit more ideas in the future. The fantasy yarn shopping, the discipline of writing clear instructions and the rigour of the maths are all great and (I think) make me a better designer. But not right now. At least, not until the day job quietens down a bit.

Happy New Year!

Thursday 27 September 2012

You can't always tell....


I quite liked this yarn when I saw it on the shelf. Knowing me, it was the blue/turquoise combo that caught my eye.

As you can see, the blue was not quite so dominant when it was knitted up. Glad I didn't get enough for a sweater (like I ever do!)

Proved useful for hat pattern prototype, however, and the hat will be worn on dark mornings walking across the field with the dog.

There's nearly a ball of the yarn left (Adriafil Knitcol trend), so will probably use for fake-isle - there are samples on Rav and it's looking quite effective.

Wednesday 22 August 2012

It was a shawl, after all.....

.... Well - more of a shawlette - the pattern is "198 yards of heaven", but I had a ball and a half to play with - so mine's more 330 yards of heaven.

Happy with the results - first ever shawl.

It's got me thinking about designing one?

Monday 9 July 2012

What is it about Noro?

In many ways, I'm quite a conservative person. My dress sense is, largely, plain (jeans, plain coloured shirts), and I'm certainly not one for feminine florals.

Not that I don't like colour - I wear a lot of sombre shades for work, and so it is nice to get out the brights every now and again.

But there is something about long colour change yarn, that just makes me want to knit. I've got an awful lot of Kauni in the stash - a beautiful rainbow of yarn....that has a recommended needle size of 3mm, which is possibly why I've not made anything out of it.

About eighteen months ago, one of my local yarn shops was offering Noro Taiyo at half price. No more than 2 balls in each colourway, but I couldn't resist. After all - it's a long colour change yarn that you can knit up on 4.5mm needles!

But what to make? I have.....there's no other way to describe it....titted about for some time trying different ideas, before coming to the conclusion that with this particular yarn, knitted is better than crocheted.

So I decided to have a go at a side to side jacket. I've added a few darts for swing and swagger. It's in stocking stitch and the sleeves are also worked side to side.

The result? Bright, but not as brash as I feared. The long rows have meant that the stripes are narrow and so there aren't huge blocks of lime green to contend with.


I also had some Noro Cash Island, which I used to define the darts, as well as for the cuffs and collar. Short rows were used, as needed, for all shapings. This hasn't got the Noro bug out of my system, but I do feel as if I've burnt some serious stash! There's a skein and a half left of the Taiyo in my favourite colourway - I feel a shawl coming on.......

Sunday 18 March 2012

Who would have thought that a few pieces of knitwear design would create such a crisis of conscience?

I really liked Yarn Forward magazine. This was for a few reasons:

1) The patterns – even their charity squares for a blanket (my first contribution – a freebie) were complex and interesting.
2) The magazine contained all original patterns, not yarn company promotions, or items that had been seen elsewhere.
3) The size range – being a traditionally upholstered woman myself, I appreciated patterns that covered a wide range of sizes.
4) Lots of tech editor questions. I’ve sent many grovelling and apologetic emails over my inability to count!

As it turned out, my first published pattern for the group (KAL Media) was for Inside Crochet, their stablemate, but I was still very happy to be involved with them.

I realise (now) that I should have done a bit more research into the company, but I naively carried on, submitting designs, answering call outs and making samples. I didn’t realise, at the time, that the lead players have a certain amount of “form” when it comes to not getting mags out on time, delays in paying designers, not returning samples, etc. But I didn’t do this research and all seemed to be trundling along in a satisfactory fashion.

And then KAL went into liquidation. The assets of the company were bought by the newco (ACM). This, known as a “prepack” is not unusual – the owners of ACM are the same people as owned KAL. I worked in a business environment for many years and so was used to this concept. Unpaid suppliers, if they choose, can continue to provide goods and services and make back their money through future sales. It’s not ideal, but it can mean ongoing business for the suppliers and is sometimes seen as preferable to losing the customer.

It’s a beautiful theory.

I was asked to re-invoice any outstanding amounts to the newco, which I duly did (which presumably meant they were written off the oldco list, when the liquidators started getting their hands on the paperwork).

Because of my business background, I am well aware that the owners (although they are the same people) have no legal obligation to pay the debts of oldco and so, at the time, I was grateful that efforts were being made to pay the designers. To this end, I was happy to keep submitting ideas.

A few weeks ago, there was a call out. As is my way, I put in a few ideas (four in total), hoping just one or two would be accepted. I thought it was odd when all four were. The thought did occur to me that maybe nobody else had submitted, but it wasn’t until I went onto the Rubberneckers thread entitled “This was never going to end well” on Ravelry that I found out why.

So, I’m busy working away on my designs, and then I read the item saying that a number of designs have been sold onto a Canadian Co for entry into a magazine called “Love of Crochet” (NOT to be confused with “http://www.love-crochet.com/” a fab new online mag).

On examination of the contracts again, it appeared that the company hadn’t done anything illegal (mea culpa if I agree to something to my detriment) but I felt that this was bad practice. After all, I was now published in North America, but had received no notification of this. I could use that info to promote myself in other mags, and so felt that I should have been informed. This is particularly galling, considering it’s one of the KAL items that I still haven’t been paid for!

Yarn support arrived for the latest ideas, I started swatching and then I began to see the stuff on the internet. To say I felt foolish is an understatement. I know I can be a bit “Pollyanna” but I felt completely gullible and taken for a ride. But, what to do? I had agreed to the four designs and, as an added incentive, I was going to get paid for some of the old items at the same time as some of the new. No, this is not remotely altruistic, but at that point I just wanted my money back.

But then I realised that an ACM invoice was unpaid, a newco invoice which should be paid within 30 days of receipt. Along with it was some of the old KAL debt, but that didn’t matter, I hadn’t got a penny of either.

So I gave the company seven days notice of my intent to sue. To be fair, I had a phone call straight away and would like to stress that there are some good and reasonable people at this company who are working under very difficult circumstances and who appear to be doing their best for the designers and the customers. Kudos to Mandy.

I don’t wish to breach the confidentiality of our conversation, but suffice to say some of the situation was explained to me and I agreed to continue with the current project (the first of the four having already been sent).

I also had this feeling that I didn’t want to leave myself in a situation where I could be accused of breaking the terms of my contract. (Just because others have behaved badly, I don’t have to go down to their level). So, I decided that I would carry on making the second design, but not send it to the company until I’d got some money.

Before I got to this stage, a payment was received for an ACM and a KAL invoice. Would you believe that, at first, I felt grateful? I mean, how bloody stupid am I to feel grateful about being paid late? The KAL invoice was eighteen months old!

Another thread came on line, where a question was posed that I had considered myself. Are we in danger of making the situation worse with all of the bad publicity? Aren’t we more likely to cause the failure of the business through reduced sales and advertising, which would mean that designers and other suppliers are even less likely to be paid?

The straight answer to those questions is, of course, “yes”. But it’s more complicated than that. Do we want to continue supporting a business that has repeatedly let folks down. How many more times can we act like it’s going to get better, when there is little evidence to the contrary? And do we want to be associated with a company which has developed a toxic reputation?

The internet can verge on the hysterical sometimes, but many of the people commenting on this are calm, respected designers and suppliers who have worked hard to build their reputations. They deserve to be listened to.

It got to the point where these questions cost me a sleepless night and, believe me, I really like my sleep.

So that was it, I advised ACM that I would complete the contract currently being made, but I was giving the 30 days notice required to cancel the other two. I contacted the yarn suppliers to let them know that I was returning their items. I explained the situation, offered to refund their postage costs and the price of the yarn that I’d already used for swatching. They have been universally lovely and supportive – thank you to them.

I would also like to add that through my dealings with KAL/ACM, I have met some really great people who have kindly asked me to submit designs etc. But, more importantly, they are a pleasure to know.

So why am I writing this blog post now? I had previously made a deliberate decision not to enter into the debate.

Firstly, to get it off my chest. This has been getting on my threepennies for a while and causing some consternation, so I needed to get it out there.

Secondly, to explain why two of my patterns (assuming that they get published, after this) are appearing in future editions of the mag.

Thirdly, to wish the many good folks at ACM good things. There are some lovely people whom I wish well. I certainly don’t wish the makers of bad decisions any harm. I just wish that they’d stop over-trading.

The initial ideas for the magazine were great. I truly hope that with a new editor in chief, they can return to those concepts and re-build their reputation.

May this not be the triumph of optimism over experience.

Thursday 15 March 2012

Funny the requests you get

One of my favourite undertakers (yes, I am in a position to make a selection) saw my fingerless mitts and wanted something similar.
I am here to oblige.
Made from a pattern I had published in Let's Knit! last year.
Made using King Cole 100% superwash merino DK weight.

Anti-climax!

After hours of sleeplessness, worry and anxiety, this morning I sent three emails. One was to a publisher removing myself from two commissions. I have an item still to finish and will meet all contractual obligations, but I'm not entering into anything else.

You can probably guess who it is and no, I probably won't get paid, but that doesn't mean that I have to behave badly.

The other two emails were to suppliers, to arrange return of the yarn support.

I was expecting some kind of reaction, but there has been absolutely nothing in the five hours that have elapsed since hitting the send buttons. I feel a bit deflated!

More will follow, when this whole sorry story is behind me.

Monday 2 January 2012

Up on last year!

Just the yearly updates for 2011:

Weaving 1,847 m

Knitting 10,613 m

Crochet 10,587 m

That is a grand total of: 23,047m

Happy with that - overall net loss, I think.

However, would be even more happy if I were to put it over the 25k m in 2012.

Well, ya goatta havva goal!

Happy New Year.